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STYLE
Publié le
15 février 2024
In the industry Jimmy Choo is a house-hold name, synonymous with style, luxury and exquisite craftsmanship. The King of Shoes was born in Malaysia in the family of cobblers, where his father transmitted everything he knew about the shoe-craft. Later Choo made himself a name in London, founding his eponymous label in 1996 with entrepreneur Tamara Mellon, then British Vogue editor who was the first to spot his talent and give him space on the pages of the magazine. And even if Choo sold 50% of his shares and left the brand in 2001, his creations continue to speak for themselves. Jimmy Choo stilettos, adorned by celebrities (both Madonna and Michelle Obama are his biggest fans) and royals (Princess Diana was one of his most loyal customers) became a cultural phenomenon, immortalized in the Sex in the City series (remember, when Carrie Bradshow cries: “I lost my Choo!” as she tries to catch the last ferry to get back to Manhattan from Staten Island) and numerous rap songs including Beyoncé’s cover of 50 Cent’s “In Da Club”. His latest venture? A fashion school of his own name, Jimmy Choo Academy or JCA for short, that the 75-year-old designer opened three years ago in London’s Mayfair. For S-quive, Professor Jimmy Choo explains why it’s so important to pass on the industry’s savoir-faire to the new generation, and why he still believes that London will always find a way to shine even after Brexit.
How did you come up with the idea of the JCA project? And why did you choose central London?
Education is very important to me and I wanted to be able to mentor more young designers. Nowadays, having a strong work ethic isn’t enough to cut it in this industry. Designers also need creativity, skill, and a team of mentors to support them. Founding this school meant that I was able to support these emerging designers and provide them with the resources and team they need to succeed. Why London? For me, it has always been a hub of creativity and design, so it was perfect. There is immense inspiration on the streets of Mayfair and London in general. It’s also where I started my career in footwear. So it felt like London was the perfect place for the JCA.
In which ways your Academy is different from other London-based fashion schools?
I didn’t want to create just another design school. It was important that we set up our learners with the resources and industry network to have an actual living brand by the time they graduate. We take a tailored approach to each learner and work with them individually, listening to them and their vision, bringing their dreams to life. No two learners are the same, therefore no two learners are treated the same at the JCA.
“This isn’t just a design school, we really aim to set up our learners with the resources and network to have a successful brand as soon as they graduate.”
In your opinion, what are the most important principles of fashion education?
The network is perhaps the most important thing learners can receive from their education with us. As well as a mentality that prepares them for industry and what their future may hold. Fashion can be a tough industry so we hope to teach them to enter the workplace with kindness and openness that will help them create a positive impact and change the industry for the better.
Tell us more about your selection process?
Our consideration process is very unique. It is based on academic and creative potential assessed through prior qualifications, portfolio and academic interview. We invite only the most talented and ambitious students to join us - those who want to start their own businesses and show an entrepreneurial spirit. This isn’t just a design school, we really aim to set up our learners with the resources and network to have a successful brand as soon as they graduate. Our professors all have many years of experience, proven track records of success in their respective fields, and a passion for teaching the next generation of designers. And we also have amazing guest speakers, industry insiders like Ramdane Touhami, co-founder of Officine Universelle Buly, designer Patrick McDowell or photographer Jonathan Hallam, one of the rarest persons allowed to take pictures inside Maison Martin Margiela at the time.
“Seeing that come to fruition with our very first class was a memorable day for me.”
Why did you decide to include summer classes and short specific courses in the selection of the programs available at JCA Academy?
The short courses, like fashion buying, fashion illustration or fashion cutting, offer condensed yet comprehensive overviews of specific topics. We’re able to cater to a wider range of learners this way, including working professionals looking to learn a new skill and advance in their careers or even those who wish to simply take up a new hobby.
How do you find yourself in your new role as a teacher?
It’s lovely! I get to first meet our learners in their induction weeks in September each year and I travel back and forth to London throughout the year to teach them and really make them feel part of the JCA family. My inaugural year at the JCA was so inspiring in particular as my business partner Stephen Smith and I had been discussing creating the JCA for decades, so seeing that come to fruition with our very first class was a memorable day for me.
In our society we have this impression that to learn one has to be young and at the beginning of the career. But you studied in Cordwainers Technical College in your 30s. What about your school?
The Academy is very much a mixed community of designers at all stages of their career from learners starting out at 18 to those coming to fashion as a second career. We also have an incubation programme that supports both our learners and young start-up businesses during their early years. It’s never too late to follow your passion.
“My father was my mentor. He was a shoemaker and taught me the craft among other very valuable lessons, like patience.”
In your interviews you always precise the importance of mentors for the students. In your career who were your mentors and supporters?
My father was my mentor. He was a shoemaker and taught me the craft among other very valuable lessons, like patience. At first he wouldn’t let me make shoes. Instead, he said: 'Sit and watch, sit and watch.' For months and months, I did that, thinking, why haven’t I started yet? Eventually, my dad allowed me to sit at the pattern-cutting table and taught me how to cut out the pattern. To tell the truth, the first few times I did it, I cut my leg.
Your passion for shoes, how did it start?
Designing shoes is in my DNA. My parents were shoemakers so I followed my father’s lead and he inspired me throughout my entire career.
How to create a shoe that will become a legend?
Great shoe design isn’t an exact science. I think any good shoe has a few common “ingredients” that help it stand the test of time. The finest quality materials, good structural design and be pleasing to the eye.
London played a central part in your career. How do you feel about the city now? Is there a future for London after Brexit?
London has always been the perfect intersection of business and design, which has resulted in it being one of the top fashion capitals of the world. London will always be a global hub for fashion innovation and I don’t see that changing anytime soon, even post Brexit. There is so much work being done in the city revolving around sustainable fashion in particular.
“I’m so proud that so many of our young designers have sustainability as a core brand value.”
What is your vision of the fashion business today and where do you think we are heading in the future?
I think there will be a continued and intensified need for sustainable design and industry practices. I’ve seen a lot of improvement in the past 10-15 years, but there is still so much work to be done. I’m so proud that so many of our young designers have sustainability as a core brand value.
What advice would you give to an aspiring designer who wants to break into the world of fashion?
I always tell our students that they need to have a strong foundation base. Just having a unique idea or good work ethic isn’t enough. The network of people surrounding you and your business is very important. Humility will get you far in business and in life.
